High-Altitude Slogging on Buffalo Mountain.

Mike and I wanted to get in a quick training climb and headed out yesterday to climb Grizzly. Unfortunately, we couldn't get there because Loveland pass was closed! Instead, I remember seeing a fairly impressive peak next to Silverthorne last summer and had vowed to climb it: Buffalo Mountain.

We didn't have time to pick a route so instead, we took a look and decided we could break through treeline and get to a rocky outcropping at 11,000 feet and climb that to the summit without too much avalanche hazard. Little did we know what a posthole-fest we were in for. We ended up climbing all day in almost wait deep snow. The worst was the final exit onto summit that was about 50-55 degree snow field, heavy, wet, to our waists... the last 60 vertical feet probably took us 20 minites. The hardest 20 mins. I've suffered in a while. Views were spectacular and I'm happy that despite the conditions we pushed to the objective.

I got a few views of the Y-coulouir over the cliffs to our north, looks like a great climb once avy danger has dropped a bit.

Bergsteiger!

Mentally punishing postholes at 12,000 feet. Seeking rocks to avoid deep snow, dealing with ice.

Push to the Summit!

Summit headwall

It looks like the last few pitches on Tocllajaru are technical up a fantastic and broad headwall with great views of the range. We'll be climbing 50-65 degree ice/snow at over 17,000 feet. In my opinion, the best way to prepare for this type of climbing is to climb a ton of couloirs this Spring.

I've found a few pictures of the technical summit push to give us an idea of the type of climbing we can expect. The first is actually an approach from the west face towards the south ridge. But it shows what the gentler sections of ridge climbing can look like on the mountain.

There is usually a pretty huge Bergschrund that blocks access to the final pitches of the climb. I've posted a photo of some climbers setting up for the technical climbing near the Berg.

Here are the things I'll be doing to hone my technical skills in Rocky Mountain National Park and surrounding ranges for the climb:

- Placing pickets/screws on lead

- Rope mangement

- Setting fixed ropes (in case we decide to speed up with a single lead and jugging)

- Multi-pitch abseiling off snow anchors

I am honored to be part of the expedition team. The climb looks amazing and I'm committing to a pretty hard training schedule to get the most out of it!

Summit pitch:

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