Mixed Climbing on Pikes Peak: Little Italy Variation

Route marked in red.

-April 23, 2011-

Mike Awful, Jonathan, and I had planned on a classic spring climb of the Skywalker Couloir, but snow in Colorado has buried most spring climbing routes for another few weeks..Pikes Peak became a dryer alternative for a early Saturday climb.

We were warned about road closures, gates not opening until later in the morning, and the 30 dollar fee, but we wanted to find good mixed climbing in condition so bad, we braved "America's Mountain" last Saturday.

At the gate, a group of mountaineers from a local community college told us they were turning around due to bad weather up high. The rangers gave us stern warnings about a "blizzard" that was pounding the mountain. Of course, we decided to "go check it out", and we were rewarded for our perseverance. One man's blizzard and all that....

We found great snow conditions, solid cramponing snow in the couloir, frozen rock and drifts of corn snow everywhere else. Winds pounded us periodically. We approached up the main route and made good time.

Jonathan and Mike on the "boot" of Littly Italy.

We decided to chase a line to climbers right of the "Little Italy" couloir and swung

off the traditional route after we climbed the boot.

It was an amazing day, mostly mellow climbing in great early spring conditions. We were up and down pretty quickly and had a big helping of mixed climbing.

Pictures of the climb.

Mike pounded by winds and spin drift.

Traversing across moderate exposure to a rock step.

Jonathan waiting on a excellent belay ledge partway up the route.

Jonathan free climbing up to a snowy ledge. The moss/grass took axe placements so great that we were looking for it growing in cracks along the rocks.

Chris setting an anchor as Mike looks at a snow/ice ramp that blocks access to an upper snowfield.

After Jonathan's lead, Mike heading up a finger sized crack and icy ramp.

Descending the 30-35 degree couloir.

High-Altitude Slogging on Buffalo Mountain.

Mike and I wanted to get in a quick training climb and headed out yesterday to climb Grizzly. Unfortunately, we couldn't get there because Loveland pass was closed! Instead, I remember seeing a fairly impressive peak next to Silverthorne last summer and had vowed to climb it: Buffalo Mountain.

We didn't have time to pick a route so instead, we took a look and decided we could break through treeline and get to a rocky outcropping at 11,000 feet and climb that to the summit without too much avalanche hazard. Little did we know what a posthole-fest we were in for. We ended up climbing all day in almost wait deep snow. The worst was the final exit onto summit that was about 50-55 degree snow field, heavy, wet, to our waists... the last 60 vertical feet probably took us 20 minites. The hardest 20 mins. I've suffered in a while. Views were spectacular and I'm happy that despite the conditions we pushed to the objective.

I got a few views of the Y-coulouir over the cliffs to our north, looks like a great climb once avy danger has dropped a bit.

Bergsteiger!

Mentally punishing postholes at 12,000 feet. Seeking rocks to avoid deep snow, dealing with ice.

Push to the Summit!

Summit headwall

It looks like the last few pitches on Tocllajaru are technical up a fantastic and broad headwall with great views of the range. We'll be climbing 50-65 degree ice/snow at over 17,000 feet. In my opinion, the best way to prepare for this type of climbing is to climb a ton of couloirs this Spring.

I've found a few pictures of the technical summit push to give us an idea of the type of climbing we can expect. The first is actually an approach from the west face towards the south ridge. But it shows what the gentler sections of ridge climbing can look like on the mountain.

There is usually a pretty huge Bergschrund that blocks access to the final pitches of the climb. I've posted a photo of some climbers setting up for the technical climbing near the Berg.

Here are the things I'll be doing to hone my technical skills in Rocky Mountain National Park and surrounding ranges for the climb:

- Placing pickets/screws on lead

- Rope mangement

- Setting fixed ropes (in case we decide to speed up with a single lead and jugging)

- Multi-pitch abseiling off snow anchors

I am honored to be part of the expedition team. The climb looks amazing and I'm committing to a pretty hard training schedule to get the most out of it!

Summit pitch:

---

Bergsteiger Climb Planning Meeting

A reminder to all Bergsteiger members: The 2011 Bergsteiger Korps Planning and Coordination meeting will be held this Sunday January 23rd at 1:00pm in Denver, Colorado. Exact location is still to be determined, but delicious beverages will be involved with a possible visit to Bentgate Mountaineering afterwards.