Route marked in red.
Mike Awful, Jonathan, and I had planned on a classic spring climb of the Skywalker Couloir, but snow in Colorado has buried most spring climbing routes for another few weeks..Pikes Peak became a dryer alternative for a early Saturday climb.
We were warned about road closures, gates not opening until later in the morning, and the 30 dollar fee, but we wanted to find good mixed climbing in condition so bad, we braved "America's Mountain" last Saturday.
At the gate, a group of mountaineers from a local community college told us they were turning around due to bad weather up high. The rangers gave us stern warnings about a "blizzard" that was pounding the mountain. Of course, we decided to "go check it out", and we were rewarded for our perseverance. One man's blizzard and all that....
We found great snow conditions, solid cramponing snow in the couloir, frozen rock and drifts of corn snow everywhere else. Winds pounded us periodically. We approached up the main route and made good time.
Jonathan and Mike on the "boot" of Littly Italy.
off the traditional route after we climbed the boot.
It was an amazing day, mostly mellow climbing in great early spring conditions. We were up and down pretty quickly and had a big helping of mixed climbing.
Pictures of the climb.
Mike pounded by winds and spin drift.
Traversing across moderate exposure to a rock step.
Jonathan waiting on a excellent belay ledge partway up the route.
Jonathan free climbing up to a snowy ledge. The moss/grass took axe placements so great that we were looking for it growing in cracks along the rocks.
Chris setting an anchor as Mike looks at a snow/ice ramp that blocks access to an upper snowfield.
After Jonathan's lead, Mike heading up a finger sized crack and icy ramp.
Descending the 30-35 degree couloir.
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